July 9, 2005. Thousands of residents from the sweltering, dilapidated
camps that surround Khartoum streamed into the city. So many
poverty-stricken and war-weary Sudanese filled the streets that the city
shut down. I remember seeing broad smiles and hopeful eyes. Beneath
the smiles, one could still sense hunger and trepidation. But this was a
day for rejoicing. After more than twenty-two years, southern Sudanese
leaders were officially welcomed back to the capital city and into government.
The civil war was finally over.
My family had fled Sudan when I was a boy in 1983, as war resumed
after a decade of relative calm. I returned to Sudan for the first time
in 2005 to spend the summer with the United Nations Development
Programme (UNDP) as a graduate student from Berkeley. I hoped to
learn more about my homeland and the people who had stayed behind.
I also wanted to make better sense of the concept and functions of law –
and lawlessness. I hoped that investigating the law in as little-studied
and unstable a setting as Sudan would reveal insights into the basis of
the law’s instrumental and ideological malleability. I knew I was lucky
to have been spared the devastation of war in the intervening decades
until my return to Sudan. But I had no conception of the true price paid
by the Sudanese people during periods of violence and repression.